Rome: a wonderful city, if you know when to move
Updated October 2026
We have been to Rome many times, and we keep coming back. It’s a wonderful city. But the big sights are a madhouse these days, and it pays to know that before you book.
Rome at a glance
- Best time
- April to June, September to October
- Price level
- pricey
- Getting around
- easy without a car
- Best for
- food, wine, history and art
- The catch
- The big sights are crowded most of the year, and July and August are hot.
When to go
Very hot in July and August. Temperatures are average daily highs in °F and °C (WeatherSpark). Ratings are our own. $ = cheapest, $$$ = most expensive. 🔥 = heat, ★ = big event.
How to see the sights without the crowds
Head out early in the morning. You’ll get photos with more in them than other tourists’ backs, and you’ll actually enjoy the moment. Do the classics in the morning and save the afternoon for neighborhoods with no lines.
Eat in Trastevere
Have dinner in Trastevere. You’ll find more authentic food there than a hundred yards from the Colosseum. For example Trattoria Da Teo, on Piazza dei Ponziani. Don’t even try without a reservation.
When to go
April has been our favorite: around 68°F, warm but comfortable for walking all day. Good times are April and May, maybe early June, and October to November.
We have passed through Rome in July a couple of times. In heat close to 104°F, you can’t enjoy the city. We don’t recommend July or August.
Rome in December
We haven’t been to Rome in December ourselves, but the holiday season is worth the trip. The best-known Christmas market is on Piazza Navona, usually open from December 1 to January 6. Don’t expect a huge German-style market: it’s small and charming. There are more holiday events and markets at Villa Borghese and in EUR, and a giant Christmas tree goes up in St. Peter’s Square. Check the 2026 dates before you go.
Getting around
In the center you walk and take the metro. You don’t need a car, and in the center it’s mostly a burden.
What Rome costs
On a budget, about $110 to $155 per person per day. In comfort or luxury, about $330 to $520. The lower number is the quiet season, the higher one peak season.
Includes your stay, food, activities and local transport, not flights. Converted at about $1.10 per euro. Estimates only.
Flights from the US and Canada
Fly into: Rome (FCO). Typical economy fares per person, round trip. Canadian fares are in Canadian dollars. Not live prices, so always check before you book.
Day trips
Rome makes a good base because trains run often in every direction. You can stay in one hotel the whole trip and do day trips to beaches, art, food and small towns.
The fountain gardens of Villa d’Este and Hadrian’s Villa, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Leave in the morning and you can see both.
We haven’t been here ourselves, so this is based on other travelers’ reports.
An ancient port city, like a smaller and calmer Pompeii. The beach at Ostia is on the same train line.
We haven’t been here ourselves, so this is based on other travelers’ reports.
A town built on a cliff, with a stunning cathedral and underground caves. The local white wine is cheap.
We haven’t been here ourselves, so this is based on other travelers’ reports.
Pizza and the lanes of the old town. A long but easy day, because the train is fast.
The Duomo, Ponte Vecchio and lunch at the Mercato Centrale. A long day, but doable.
Where to eat
Breakfast and brunch
Lunch
Dinner
We picked these places from Google ratings and reviews in October 2026, and we haven’t eaten at all of them. Many Italian restaurants take reservations on WhatsApp, and a reservation only counts once they reply. The Map link opens the restaurant in Google Maps, where you’ll also find a booking button if they take online reservations. Opening hours change, so check before you go.
Food and wine
Rome on a plate: a typical four-course Lazio menu, and the wine to go with each.
Soccer
Even if soccer isn’t your sport, a home game is one of the best evenings you can have in Italy: the singing, the flags, the whole crowd living every pass. Tickets usually cost a fraction of a pro game in the US or Canada.
Kickoff times are set only a few weeks ahead, so check the club’s website for the schedule.
Golf
Green fees are estimates and vary by season and day of the week. Most courses ask for a handicap certificate. The links go to the course or a golf directory with booking and contact details.
Shopping
- Via Condotti and the Spanish Steps: Rome’s luxury brands on one street. 📍 Map
- Via del Corso: a long shopping street for everyday brands, between Piazza del Popolo and Piazza Venezia. 📍 Map
- The Campo de’ Fiori market: fruit, spices and souvenirs in the mornings. 📍 Map
Culture and events
- Easter, March or April: papal Masses in St. Peter’s Square. The Vatican area is packed, and hotel prices rise across the city.
- Natale di Roma, April 21: Rome’s birthday, with parades in ancient Roman costume. Little effect on crowds.
- Feast of Saints Peter and Paul, June 29: Rome’s own holiday, when some shops and offices close.
Check the exact dates on the event’s own website, as they can change from year to year.
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