Lake Como and Lake Garda without a car: a ready-made 7-day itinerary for two

Day 1: To Lake Como

From the airport to Milano Centrale, for example on the Malpensa Express from Malpensa, then a direct regional train, about an hour, to Varenna, a small village on the east shore of Lake Como. Varenna station has no ticket office, so buy tickets ahead in the app or in Milan. For a travel day, an evening by the lake is plenty.

Stay: Varenna, 2 nights. We haven’t been to Lake Como ourselves, so these days are based on other travelers’ reports.

Day 2: Ferry to Bellagio

Take the ferry across to Bellagio, the lake’s best-known village on the tip of the peninsula, and if you like, one of the lakeside villas with gardens, such as Villa Carlotta. The ferry is the best way to get around Lake Como.

Day 3: Train to Lake Garda

Train back to Milano Centrale, about an hour, then a train to Desenzano, about an hour, and a bus from Desenzano to Sirmione, about 20 minutes. There’s no direct line between the lakes, so going via Milan is fastest. For a travel day, an evening in the old town is plenty.

Stay: Sirmione, 2 nights.

Day 4: Sirmione

Sirmione’s water castle is so different that it stays with you, and for atmosphere, Sirmione clearly beats Malcesine for us. At the tip of the peninsula are the ruins of a Roman villa, and it’s a lovely walk along the water. In the afternoon, try a spa: Sirmione’s hot springs are well known. Visit the old town in the morning or evening, because day trippers fill it at midday.

Day 5: Ferry north to Riva

Cross Lake Garda to Riva del Garda. In summer, the fast boat from Sirmione to Riva runs only a few times a day, and the slower ferries take most of the day and may need a change, so check the Navigazione Laghi schedule ahead. On the way you pass the waterfront of Garda and the vineyards of Bardolino, and the mountains grow as the lake narrows. If the boats aren’t running, you can also get to Riva by train to Rovereto and then a bus.

Stay: Riva del Garda, 2 nights.

Day 6: Malcesine and Monte Baldo

Ferry to Malcesine, with a castle on the water and a cable car up Monte Baldo. From the top, all of Lake Garda is below you. For things to do, Malcesine beats Sirmione in our book. Back to Riva in the evening, where the swans on the shore and the mountains all around make the mood something special.

Day 7: Verona, and home

Bus to Rovereto, about 40 minutes, then the train to Verona, about 1½ hours in total with the change. Before your flight, walk around the Arena and the Via Mazzini shopping street. That’s where we had a memorable barbershop encounter, which we tell about on our Verona page. An airport bus runs from Verona’s train station.

⚽ If you’re there during the season, check Como, Inter, AC Milan and Hellas Verona home games in our soccer calendar.