Road trip
Western Sicily without a car: a ready-made 10-day itinerary for two
Little Trapani, three nights on the island of Favignana, where you get around by bike and swim in turquoise water, and finally Palermo’s street food and markets. Ten days, three bases and no rush at all. You can book every step right here, day by day.
The trip at a glance
- Who it’s for: couples or two friends who want food, the sea and time to just be
- When: May, June, September or October. July and August are hot, and Favignana is packed
- The route: two nights in Trapani, three on Favignana and four in Palermo. In and out of Palermo airport
- Getting around: no car at all. Bus from the airport to Trapani, fast boat to Favignana, bikes on the island, and a bus to Palermo
The trip takes place in the marked area. Each base has its own map with the day trips.
Why only the west? We once did almost all of Sicily in one trip, and looking back, it was too much. Split the island in two, and you get far more out of your vacation. Our eastern Sicily itinerary is the other half.
Flights
There are no nonstop flights from the US or Canada to Sicily, so fly to Palermo with one connection, and back the same way. Rome, Milan or a European hub such as Munich all work.
Day 1: From the airport to Trapani
From Palermo airport, take the bus to Trapani. Settle in, walk the old town on its narrow strip of land between two seas, and have dinner by the water.
Stay: Trapani, 2 nights.
Day 2: Erice
The cable car takes about ten minutes from Trapani up to Erice, a medieval village on a mountaintop. Stone lanes, castle ruins, views all the way to the Egadi Islands, and the almond pastries the village is known for. Erice is often cooler and cloudier than the coast, and if the cable car is closed because of wind, there’s also a bus. We haven’t been to Erice ourselves, so this is based on other travelers’ reports.
Day 3: Fast boat to Favignana
Take the fast boat from Trapani harbor to Favignana. Rent bikes near the harbor: on this island, that’s how everyone gets around.
Stay: Favignana, 3 nights.
Days 4 and 5: Favignana
Bike from cove to cove, swim at Cala Rossa and Bue Marino, and take long lunches. On the second day, go on a full-day boat trip to Levanzo and around the islands. We spent a whole day sailing the Egadi Islands just like this, and from the sea, this corner of Italy wins hands down. On a rainy day, visit the old tuna factory, now a museum.
Day 6: To Palermo
Boat back to Trapani, then the bus to Palermo. Check into the center and take an evening walk in the old town.
Stay: Palermo, 4 nights.
Day 7: Street food and markets
Palermo’s street food is the best Italy has: arancine, panelle, sfincione and, for the brave, pani ca’ meusa. The first time, we did a street food tour with a local guide, and it’s the best way to start. In the evening, you can book a dinner at our friend Fulvio’s home.
⚽ If you’re there during the season, check Palermo’s home games in our soccer calendar.
Day 8: Cefalù
About an hour by train to Cefalù, whose old town sits below a rock, with the beach right next to the center. We did this day trip by train, and it was easy. Back to Palermo for the night.
Day 9: Your own day, or Scala dei Turchi
Pick one of three. No plans at all: morning coffee by the market and a walk in the old town. A beach day at Mondello, Palermo’s own sandy beach, about half an hour by bus. Or a full-day trip to Scala dei Turchi, the white limestone cliffs by the sea, about two hours each way. Without a car, a guided day trip is easiest, and many include the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento.
Day 10: Home
From central Palermo to the airport takes about an hour by train or bus. Fly home.
What it costs
A rough estimate for two in May or September, flying from the East Coast:
- Flights: about $1,500 to $2,000 for two, round trip with one connection. More from the West Coast
- Stays: about $1,000 to $1,550 for nine nights
- Buses, boats and bikes: about $275 to $450
- Food: about $90 to $130 a day for two
All in, roughly $3,700 to $5,300 for two. Without a car, the trip is more relaxed, too. Prices change a lot with the season and how early you book, so treat these as a ballpark.
Cook Sicily at home with our Sicilian recipes.
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